Saturday, March 19, 2016

IF YOU CAN’T STAND THE HEAT - TURN ON THE FAN!



Jamie Oliber, Antonio Carluccio and Gennaro Contaldo (Jamie's Italian mentor)
The incomparable Maggie Beer
The hard-to-forget Bernard King!


Dame Nellie Melba


Before a bounty of TV cooking shows and cooking competitions hosted/judged by Australian chefs of note who are sometimes joined by overseas chefs of equal note graced our TV screens; before the help of Executive Chef Extraordinaire aka “Google”, we were dependent upon recipe books. Many well-worn cook books were handed down through the generations from mothers to daughters. Recipes cut from newspapers and magazines filled folders.

Our grandmother was the cook in our household because our mother worked out of the home, something that was a little unusual back in the Fifties.  However, it was necessary in our case.  Our father played no role in my brother’s and my life, in any way.  So our mother was the main breadwinner in the household, and our Nana the main breadmaker!  I learned a lot from watching Nana cook; and asking questions.  She was a willing teacher and I, a willing learner.

When I left home at the end of my teen years to find my own way in the world recipe books were constant purchases of mine. In my spare time, even when I had little to spare, I found time to pour over the recipes and drool over the glossy, colourful pictures therein; reading and learning. The pictures tempted the weak such as I was. They made it easy to fall under their spell. I had no choice but to experiment; picture books for grown-ups. My bookshelves and the bookshelves of others bulged with recipe books. Acrylic book stands were bought so the recipe book would be at hand on the bench when preparing its culinary delights while dinner guests waited expectantly at the dining table. 

And back in the late Sixties and early Seventies when I gained part-time, casual work in the evenings in restaurants waiting on tables I kept a close eye on what the chefs did; and again, I questioned and learned; and assisted when I could.

I was chuffed to say the least when I bought the Larousse Gastronomique. My hard-cover edition, a thick, hard-cover volume was published by Paul Hamlyn in 1968. The Larousse, a most comprehensive, illustrated guide to French cooking; an encyclopedia on food, wine and cooking was first published in 1938.  I learned much from the book’s inspirational, detailed information. It, along with a million other recipe books, remains in my possession.

In the late 60s through to the late 70s Time-Life published a wonderful series of recipe books – “Foods of the World”; 27 cookbooks in total.  Their “Classic French Cooking” and “Cooking of Italy” joined the Larousse on my shelves as did Escoffier’s “Le Guide Culinaire”. A book by Swiss chef Joseph Favre squeezed in beside Escoffier.

Georges Augustus Escoffier didn’t mind the Swiss. He mingled with all sorts in Europe. He also spent time in London. In 1893, when chef at the Savoy in London, Escoffier honoured our own Dame Nellie Melba by inventing Pêche Melba; and then in 1897 he followed up with Melba Toast.  Having done so doesn’t mean they’d shared an overnight tête-à-tête. Melba toast isn’t a breakfast toast, so I guess not.  Escoffier even fed and impressed Kaiser Wilhelm ІІ, the Emperor of Germany in 1913. I doubt the feeling was mutual or a night shared. 

Marcella Hazan and her Italian cookbooks landed on my bookshelves, as did Marguerite Patten’s books.  Marguerite must have been doing something right; she passed away 4th June, 2015, exactly five months short of turning 100 years old on 4th November, 2015. No new-fangled fad diets for her.
Margaret Fulton, still going strong at 91, played her role, too, in cultivating interest in cooking; as did Stephanie Alexander.

Of today’s “celebrity” chefs I’m a big fan of Jamie Oliver, for one.  His love of cooking is palpable; and his food is definitely palatable.  Because I was cooking in restaurants and working split shifts, long hours when “The Naked Chef” hit our television screens I never watched the show when it first appeared; but through the years Oliver grabbed my attention and I like his way.  Oliver’s natural gusto shown in the preparation of food and the eating thereof is free of all the bells and whistles and the posturing of some...(I’m not pointing any fingers at Nigella, of course)!

I’m also a fan of Antonio Caluccio, the famed Italian chef who is based in London. Carluccio who turns 79 in April exudes such a zest for life; a zest for food...for good food; healthy, wholesome food and wine.  He’s a joy to watch.

And who doesn’t like one of our National Treasures - Maggie Beer? Not liking Maggie would be akin to not liking koalas or home-made apple pies.

One of the first TV chefs to pick up a knife or two along with a few pots and pans on our screens was the late, acerbic, Maleny-born Bernard King back in the 70s and 80s. Those of my generation would remember him well.  He stirred the pot...often!

Marcella’s Broccoli-Potato Soup: Combine 1-1/2tbs butter and 1/4c x-olive oil in pot over med-heat. When butter begins to melt, add 2c julienned brown onions; season. Sauté until onions become golden; add 1tbs minced garlic; cook 2-3min; add 2c Dutch cream potatoes, medium dice; stir to coat; cook 1-2mins; add 2-1/2c stem-less broccoli florets; cook 1-2mins; add 3-1/2c  quality chick or veg stock; bring to boil. Adjust seasonings; don’t over-salt. Simmer until vegetables are tender; stir in1/2c grated Parmesan, 1-1/2tbs butter and 6 torn fresh basil leaves.

Poulet Au Vinaigre: Preheat oven 130C. Melt 30g butter in pan; brown 12 chicken joints on all sides, skin first; add 3 finely chopped shallots and 6 large unpeeled garlic cloves; cover; on low heat cook gently 30-40mins or until cooked. Transfer chicken to serving dish; keep warm in low oven, loosely covered with foil. Pour fat out of pan; add 6tbs white wine vinegar; stir to dislodge sediment. Reduce to about 2tbs; stir in 325ml dry white whine, 150ml chick stock, 3tbs brandy, 3tsp Dijon mustard and 1-1/2tsp tomato purée; mix well. Boil until reduced to sauce consistency; press through sieve into a saucepan; squash garlic to get some of the juice; add 100ml cream; boil. Take off heat; whisk in 50g cold, cubed butter; add 3 large, skinned, deseeded plum tomatoes, cut into strips; gently heat through; check seasoning; pour over chicken.

French Rhubarb Cake: Preheat oven 200C; grease 26cm spring pan. Combine 1-2/3rd cup plain flour, 2tsp baking powder and pinch salt. Cream 8tbs butter and 1-1/4cc sugar; add 3 eggs, one at a time until incorporated; add 1tsp vanilla; turn mixer to low; slowly add flour; don’t over mix; fold in 6-8c med-diced rhubarb; put dough in pan; smooth top; sprinkle with sliced almonds. Bake 35-40mins. Cool on rack.

30 comments:

  1. Oh dear. I am not a fan of Maggie. Or Jamie. Sorry about that.
    I do love cook books though. I read them, I drool, I experiment.

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  2. No need to be sorry, EC. We each have our own individual likes and dislikes...with people and all other things beneath the sun and moon. I like Marco Pierre White, too. I forgot to mention him! :)

    Thanks for coming by. :)

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  3. I remember Margaret Fulton and Bernard King, know of Jamie Oliver who's wife is expecting their 5th child I believe.
    Nigella, do like her, Gordon Ramsey, don't care for his language at times.
    Your cook books sound impressive even though I haven't heard of the chefs.
    Don't watch cooking shows, most are too slow and I prefer the ABC TV.
    It's good you were interesting in cooking when you were young, this put you in good stead for when you were an adult.

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    1. Hi Margaret, Nigella annoys the hell out of me with all her posturing and the way she handles food when preparing it. I like the way Jamie handles food. He's down to earth without any of the palaver Lawson carries on with.

      As I commented in my response to Elephant's Child...we all have our individual likes. I just like the way Jamie prepares food...I guess his cooking style is pretty similar to my own...and that's why I like it/him.

      I do watch some cooking shows...not all...but the ones I enjoy. I enjoy MKR and MasterChef. I don't watch Jamie's shows religiously; just every now and then...depending on my mood and what else is on.

      I don't watch the ABC, other than the drama shows. I never watch ABC News programmes or any of their current affairs programmes. I don't like the ABC politics...they're too left-leaning for my liking. I'm a conservative...always have been and always will be.

      Cooking was always interesting to me...and that's why I jumped into the deep end at the beginning of it all...taking a deep breath, full of bravado, wanting to challenge myself to prove I could do it...boots and all!! lol

      Thanks for coming by. :)

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  4. Just this weekend I gathered with siblings and we discussed the many chefs we have known and loved, and whom we attempt to emulate, especially those who imbibed in the wine and other alcoholic beverages they used for cooking. Graham Kerr the Galloping Gourmet, the most famous Julia Child and Justin Wilson the New Orleans Cajun.

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    1. Hi Annie...Wow! I'd forgotten all about Graham Kerr! It was Aussie entrepreneur, Harry M. Miller who kick-started Kerr's career. After his Aussie sojourn, he packed up his knives and moved to Canada. What a flash from the past that is. Thanks for reminding me of Graham Kerr. He's 82 now.

      I don't think I know of the late Justin Wilson; but I do like some Cajun-style food.

      Once you starting thinking about it...there are and were some wonderful chefs.

      Thanks for coming by. :)

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  5. Flip flops may be a word from childhood. Thongs are the butt floss underwear and swimsuits that disappear when you put them on.

    I rarely follow a recipe. I use a dash of this, a dollop of that and what I have to substitute ingredients. Seldom do I have all the ingredients a recipe calls for so my creativity is challenged. No one has turned down my cooking.

    Have a wonderful weekend.

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    1. Yes, Gail...I know that is what "thongs" mean in the States...but not here...the footwear has always been called by that name here in Aus. And "thongs" the word is also used for the style of underwear, too. A style I only tried once and discarded immediately! I hated wearing them.

      I rarely use recipes, either...even when I was cooking professionally. For me they are/were more for guidelines and ideas. 99% of the time I cook to and by taste. But that has never stopped me from enjoying reading recipes in books and magazines, though.

      Thanks for coming by. :)

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  6. Bernard King! Didn't he cause a stir every time!His comments about kids in the kitchen raised a few hackles for sure, but I liked him. Remember Peter whatshisname and his cheese recipes? "where's the cheese?"
    I'm not a fan of Maggie Beer's cooking, never tried a single recipe. Too fancy for me and I don't like the flavour of wine in everything.
    I used to have a shelf of cookbooks, mostly just to look at the gorgeous pictures while I cooked up plain old mashed potato and sausages with gravy.
    Now I have about half the number of books, gave the rest to my kids, the younger two are quite inventive mixing together things I would never have thought to put together. I do like their cheesy garlic mashed potatoes.

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    1. Hi River...Peter Russell-Clarke is the "Peter" to whom you refer, I think. God! Everyone's growing so old!! He's now 81!!

      Bernard King was a lot of fun. His audiences expected him to be him...that’s what drew his followers/viewers to him. If he didn’t have that “biting” approach, no one would’ve bothered much, I think. He had a sad ending to his life; but perhaps in another way he would've been happy going out the way he did...he collapsed in his garden...in his herb garden...causing him to fall below into another garden. Sad...but he didn't suffer.

      I don't find Maggie Beer's cooking fancy in any way. And if the alcohol...wine or whatever else is used in a recipe is cooked "down" enough, it won't be a prominent taste...all ingredients should blend in together.

      Thanks for coming by. Take care. :)

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  7. I'm not a foodie and have never enjoyed cooking programmes except for MKR and Master Chef where the cooks are more human. (Jamie Oliver is an exception!) My cook books are few but often used. I collect recipes cut from newspapers and magazines. And copied and pasted from websites - which is what I've done with your French Rhubarb Cake. That sounds delicious.

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    1. Hi there Pauline...a major part of my adult life...working career was spent around food in one way or the other. I cooked professionally for many years. And once upon a time, I regularly entertained by catering and hosting dinners or luncheons; but I gave up the latter about six years ago now...and as for work, I'm now retired.

      These days I cook very simple meals for myself. Been there...done that...and done enough! :)

      Thanks for coming by. :)

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  8. TV cook should be banned!
    All five hundred of them!

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    1. Is there anything in life, other than football, you like, Mr. Ad-Man?

      Perhaps all TV broadcasts of football should be banned to allow for more cooking shows! ;)

      Thanks for popping in. :)

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  9. I love our Maggie. I would love a little trip to her farm one day to eat and take a cooking lesson. Do you still have all your cookbooks Lee?

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    1. Hi Carol...I agree...it'd be great to go to her farm, a cooking lesson. I've used to love watching her on "The Cook and the Chef" with Simon Bryant...re-runs are on these days but I've not caught up with it again.

      Yes...I still have all my cookbooks, Carol. I did give one large, hardcover, glossy photo-filled recipe book to my grand-niece a couple of years ago...to start off an interest in cooking with her. I like to get in early...she was only 8 then when I gave the book to her!! ;)

      Thanks for coming by. :)

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  10. OMGosh, those foodie pictures are making me hungry!
    I'm sure your mom and grandmother were remarkable women.
    Another great post. Thank you.
    Hugs,

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    1. Hi Sandra, Both Mum and Nana were down-to-earth, hard-working women...each had a good sense of humour...and a bit of mischief thrown in to stir things up!

      Thanks for coming by. :)

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  11. A delightful post, Lee. I too have Larousse Gastronomique and I think it would be my "desert island book" ! Love Marcella and the late Marguerite Patten too.

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  12. Hey Pat, Nice to see you. The Larousse is the encyclopedia of cooking, that's for sure...and would be a great book to have if stranded on an island...there is much to read in it.

    Thanks for coming by...cuddles to Bertie. :)

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  13. When I get stressed (which I've been for 60 years) I cook, cook, cook. And nothing is store bought, but made by hand - even my butter and bread. Tonight I need to make a few jars of Ghee and don't know how I ever cooked without it. It feels so special knowing I can take care of people via my food. It's such a pleasing ability.

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    1. Hey there LJ....The only time I’ve made my own butter was when I was a kid...a couple of times...just for fun. You’re very industrious making your own...and deserve to be commended for doing so.

      As you say, cooking for others is very satisfying...for both them and for you. :)

      Thanks for coming by. :)

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  14. Its all come a very long way from Mrs. Beeton!

    Cheers - Stewart M - Melbourne

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    1. It sure has, Stewart...thanks for popping in. :)

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  15. I used to enjoy the television programmes Antonio Caluccio made travelling in Italy. I don't generally watch cookery programmes if there isn't an added 'local' interest liek travel. I enjoy cooking and recipe books but my opportunities for giving large dinner parties seem to have long gone and I rarely cater for more than 6 or 8 nowadays.

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    1. Hey Graham...my days of catering for dinner parties and/or luncheons are long gone, too. Now I cater for one...me. I've done more than my share - more than enough of the feeding the masses in the past - so I closed the oven door, the kitchen door and my front door on that a few years ago.

      Oh...I cater for three, actually...me, Remy and Shama!! :)

      Antonio's TV shows were great. He enjoyed his food and his wine so much - he ate with gusto...making it impossible not to like him and what he was presenting. That's the style of food I like...and his style of presentation. Jamie Oliver has a similar style, and that's why I like Jamie. No unnecessary bells and whistles...just get stuck into it and enjoy! Good, healthy, fresh food. :)

      Thanks for coming by. :)

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  16. Hello, Lee. Can I have some of that cake????

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    1. Hey there Keith...nice to have you back. Here...you can have the whole cake if you like! Thanks for popping in. :)

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  17. I've always liked Jamie Oliver, too. I see his show on public television sometimes - he's quite entertaining.

    And that almond cake looks divine!

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    1. Hi Lynn...I like Jamie for his naturalness and, as I've said in my post and in some of my comments...for the way he handles and presents food. He cooks food that all of us can cook and enjoy. His love for the preparation; for food and for the enjoyment of eating it is contagious...to me, anyway.

      Thanks for coming by. :)

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